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The Arcadia News features restaurant reviews each month.
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Fiamma
7353 E. Indian School Rd.~ 480.308.1111

My well-heeled associate phoned me at my office to give me the news. He had found a great new place to eat. We were to meet at his house at exactly 6 p.m. where we would be joined by a good friend, whom has recently found himself “out doors” and was now wandering Scottsdale with armloads of dry cleaning, a brand new smoking habit and a mad taste for liquor.

I was kept in the dark until we arrived with an appetite at the James Hotel. I don’t know who James is but my guess is that he knows a great interior designer. The restaurant at the James is elegant with keen detail set to lighting and comfort. Fiamma is a very special restaurant for many reasons but two reasons impressed me the most.

First, they have unusually comfortable seats. Simple upright dining chairs made of soft leather. The moment I slid into the chair I knew that the entire evening was going to be first class and my thoughts briefly drifted to an imaginary bankruptcy hearing years away as a judge, poring over receipts, exclaims, “Whose bright idea was the custom leather high-backs? You? Approach the bench.”

The next thing, and this was really nice, was the olive oil they served with their bread. I know that this is something a lot of people will pass right over as nothing but I want to make a big deal of it before they quit pouring it. Fiamma is pouring the best olive oil I’ve ever had in public. It’s light and fruity with a grassy background. With a great artesian bread we really didn’t need an antipasti, but a confusing exchange with my cohorts and our waiter resulted in the immediate delivery of three orders of the Straccetti’s: a salad of grilled Kobe Skirt Steak with arugula, pickled red onions and Saba ($13).
The entrees are split into two sections, Paste (Pasta) and Secondi (Main Course).

My recommendation is to consider this a good opportunity to split one of each among two diners and treat the pasta as an elaborate side course. The Pappardelle with Wild Mushrooms, Veal Sugo and Roasted Garlic Crema ($17) is a rich creamy infusion of flavors. I also loved my choice for dinner, the Wood Roasted Wild Striped Bass with Tomato Braised Fennel and Arugula ($23). It was salty, succulent and perfectly prepared. I am not privy to the exact cooking technique but believe that roasted in this case means the fish was never subjected to the tortures of direct flame except for a brief crisping of the skin.

The dessert menu offers up some serious sounding creations all reasonably priced ($8). The Warm Chocolate-Gianduja Tart with Vanilla Gelato Frappe caught my eye but I have forbidden myself from following dinner with the opulence of desserts. I am going to return just for dessert and coffee with the wife.

Fiamma is located in the new James Hotel in Scottsdale. They are open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and Brunch on Sunday at the same time. Dinner is served from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.