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The Arcadia News
features restaurant reviews each month.
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Café ZuZu
6850 E. Main (inside
Valley Ho Hotel)
480-421-7999 Hours: 6 a.m. to Midnight Daily
Craving
some comfort food? Then Café ZuZu in the newly remodeled
Valley Ho Resort is for you. This historic spot in old Scottsdale
has retained its original early ‘60s sleek style. That era
is also reflected in the menu with plenty of that stuff we all
grew up on back when school drills taught us to duck under our
desk in case the Ruskies dropped the big one. No wonder we craved
the comfort foods like those served at ZuZu’s, such as Chicken
and Dumplings ($15.00) and Tuna Noodle Casserole ($10.25). Now
I didn’t say nostalgia was cheap, but this is no greasy
spoon. Café ZuZu does serve breakfast, lunch and dinner
though. We had neglected to make reservations the night we visited,
but took the hostess up on her offer for immediate seating at
the long community bar. With comfy, high chairs lining each side
of the granite counter, we elected to sit across from each other,
while another couple further down sat side by side. Peggy Lee
was singing her sultry version of “Fever” when we
got there, followed by many more Rat Pack favorites.
My salad loving companion was intrigued by the restaurant’s
“creamy Maytag blue cheese” salad dressing (none of
that fancy French “bleu” spelling here; this is American
food through and through), so he ordered the Iceberg Wedge ($7.00).
The order of warm cheese buns ($3.00) we shared were wonderfully
yeasty; perfect for soaking up the butter served already softened.
I tried one of the menu’s more modern appetizers, the Sun-Dried
Tomato and Goat Cheese Casserole ($8.75). Baked in a small iron
pot, the warm concoction had way too many slices of garlic and
not enough of the spinach and olives mentioned on the menu. Crispy
herb toast slices served on the side were perfect for smearing
though.
The menu features a daily Blue Plate Special and that night’s
offering was a moist slice of grilled swordfish resting beside
a massive mound of browned onion and zucchini ($26). Not usually
a vegetable lover, my companion actually polished off every bit
of his sauteed veggies.
I ordered my newly discovered passion, the ever confusing Chicken
Fried Steak ($15.50). Unlike the thin pounded versions I have
had previously, ZuZu’s was thick and hearty and its perfect
crust was covered with a tasty brown gravy almost as good as my
grandmother used to make. (Sorry, Nana!) The massive mound of
mashed potatoes served alongside were flecked with parsley and
tasted homemade, but I wanted to save room for dessert.
Like any traditional diner with a counter, Café ZuZu has
an amazing array of soda fountain selections. I was tempted by
my childhood favorite, the Root Beer Float ($5.00), but with just
a slight chill in the air, decided to go for the Warm Chocolate
Decadence ($6.50) instead. Oh my. The hot-from-the-oven thin brownie,
topped with ice cream came with an almost unnecessary little pot
of hot fudge. It was too much—but in a good way!
We were originally going to split the treat until my dining companion
heard the pie that night was cherry. Baked in an individual crock
with both a bottom and top flaky crust surrounding a delectable
filling made from fresh cherries, he was lucky not to have ordered
it a la mode or I might have forced a trade.
So, next time you’re in the mood to put on a starched white
shirt and narrow black tie (actually don’t—that is
what Café ZuZu’s servers wear, and you’ll just
confuse everyone), wheel on over to swingin’ Scottsdale
for some Sinatra and Spaghetti ($13.75).
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