|
|

The Arcadia News features
restaurant reviews each month.
If you have a question or comment, please see our contact
page.
Convivo
Bistro
7000 N 16th Street, 602-997-7676
The Convivo
Bistro at 16th St. and Glendale has long held a reputation among
foodies as a great place to treat yourself to some of the city’s
best gourmet, so when I received an invitation from my Aunt Nancy
and Uncle Bob to have a go at their menu, I prepared myself religiously
for three days by fasting on nothing but Grey Goose, jalapeño
stuffed cocktail olives, aged Manchego, John Coltrane, Evian water
and prayers. The strict gastronomic discipline I had imposed on
myself paid off like a club flush and by the time the wine had been
opened and my eyes were wandering the menu, my palate was so ready
for action, I nearly flipped the dragster and set loose like a broken
robot with my salad fork on the neighboring table’s appetizer
of Foi Gras & Caramelized pears in Phyllo with Blackberry Sauce
($11).
Normally, dinner out is a twosome or foursome. Tonight, the extended
whole family had assembled, including my eight-month-old daughter
Sofia Isabella who is a famous freeloader and hasn’t picked
up a check since she was weighed in at Banner Mesa. This large,
aggressive group left me little choice but to park the Duck Terrine
with Pistachios ($7) in front of myself and tilt load the whole
rigmarole onto my starter plate—Elvis style—while the
rest of the group hopelessly fought for the steaming basket of bread.
It was worth it of course; there aren’t a lot of terrines
like this in town and a surprise attack on my comrades like this
during the main course would have escalated immediately to violence.
The Pecan and Coconut Crusted Striped Bass ($24) had to be my choice
for the entree. Wild Striper (as the anglers in Florida call it),
is a weakness of mine and I have written letters to Congress asking
that they regulate the distribution of this fish to only the best
chefs who have been certified by the SFCA.
Christian Martin, Convivo’s new owner and head chef, worked
it out perfectly with his sauté pan, giving the filet’s
crust the right treatment and firmness, without letting it go too
far and losing the filet’s silky interior. I knew seconds
into the first bite that I was sitting in front of serious food
and I prepared myself mentally by clearing my head of its usual
raucous din then with a steady hand, David Carradine style, topped
off my Sauv Blanc.
To me, I was no longer in a restaurant, I was in a church.
Usually I’m not the dessert type. I like to have a coffee
with a Sambuca rocks next to it, but when I saw the Ancho Chili
Brownie with house-made Cinnamon Ice Cream and Cajeta Sauce ($6.50),
my habits were meaningless and again, opulence would have its victory
over me like a merciless seven-foot gladiator.
Convivo is a quiet place, so thankfully Sofia didn’t start
a yelling match with imaginary elves. Christian and Brooke Martin
are cordial and visited the tables when they could, checking in
on their clients. Lunch is available as well Tuesday through Friday.
Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday. |
|