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The Arcadia News features restaurant reviews each month.
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Convivo Bistro
7000 N 16th Street, 602-997-7676

The Convivo Bistro at 16th St. and Glendale has long held a reputation among foodies as a great place to treat yourself to some of the city’s best gourmet, so when I received an invitation from my Aunt Nancy and Uncle Bob to have a go at their menu, I prepared myself religiously for three days by fasting on nothing but Grey Goose, jalapeño stuffed cocktail olives, aged Manchego, John Coltrane, Evian water and prayers. The strict gastronomic discipline I had imposed on myself paid off like a club flush and by the time the wine had been opened and my eyes were wandering the menu, my palate was so ready for action, I nearly flipped the dragster and set loose like a broken robot with my salad fork on the neighboring table’s appetizer of Foi Gras & Caramelized pears in Phyllo with Blackberry Sauce ($11).

Normally, dinner out is a twosome or foursome. Tonight, the extended whole family had assembled, including my eight-month-old daughter Sofia Isabella who is a famous freeloader and hasn’t picked up a check since she was weighed in at Banner Mesa. This large, aggressive group left me little choice but to park the Duck Terrine with Pistachios ($7) in front of myself and tilt load the whole rigmarole onto my starter plate—Elvis style—while the rest of the group hopelessly fought for the steaming basket of bread.

It was worth it of course; there aren’t a lot of terrines like this in town and a surprise attack on my comrades like this during the main course would have escalated immediately to violence.
The Pecan and Coconut Crusted Striped Bass ($24) had to be my choice for the entree. Wild Striper (as the anglers in Florida call it), is a weakness of mine and I have written letters to Congress asking that they regulate the distribution of this fish to only the best chefs who have been certified by the SFCA.

Christian Martin, Convivo’s new owner and head chef, worked it out perfectly with his sauté pan, giving the filet’s crust the right treatment and firmness, without letting it go too far and losing the filet’s silky interior. I knew seconds into the first bite that I was sitting in front of serious food and I prepared myself mentally by clearing my head of its usual raucous din then with a steady hand, David Carradine style, topped off my Sauv Blanc.

To me, I was no longer in a restaurant, I was in a church.
Usually I’m not the dessert type. I like to have a coffee with a Sambuca rocks next to it, but when I saw the Ancho Chili Brownie with house-made Cinnamon Ice Cream and Cajeta Sauce ($6.50), my habits were meaningless and again, opulence would have its victory over me like a merciless seven-foot gladiator.

Convivo is a quiet place, so thankfully Sofia didn’t start a yelling match with imaginary elves. Christian and Brooke Martin are cordial and visited the tables when they could, checking in on their clients. Lunch is available as well Tuesday through Friday. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday.

May 2005

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