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The Arcadia News features restaurant reviews each month.
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Rosie McCaffrey's
906 E Camelback Rd., 602-241-1916

Growing up with the movies I always had a very melodramatic view of what an Irish pub offered as far as atmosphere and menu. Phoenix has a few of them now, and I must admit I am somewhat disappointed in the lack of senseless chaos that I had always hoped for.

Rosie McCaffrey’s looks beyond the Irish theme of its decorator and gives us a great American restaurant rooted in Irish favors but frequently stepping outside of the box to offer some unexpected plates at simple Irish Pub prices. While the menu is broad in itself, the daily specials can range from a delicate halibut to a hearty Irish pot roast.

Chicken Ala Cummins ($7.75) is a succulent southwest chicken sandwich with a marinated chicken breast topped with provolone, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato, a spicy chipotle ranch dressing, served on sourdough. What I like most about this sandwich is the texture. The crisp sourdough is a shell for a juicy, sometimes messy interior.

The Kobe Beef Burger ($9.95) is a consistently available special and unique to the lunch menus I’ve experienced in Phoenix. This burger needs nothing fancy. I usually add cheddar or provolone to it but the beef is what’s special, so the kitchen gives you some lettuce, tomato and condiments on the side.

As you might expect from an Irish pub, Rosie’s Reuben ($6.75) is a traditional Reuben sandwich made with select ingredients. What makes this Reuben a leader to some others in town is the fact that when it arrives at your table, it is steaming hot and somewhat sloppy but in that great New York way.

Now then, enough about the food. Rosie’s pours premium single malt scotches and my favorite tap beer in the world, Tennents of Scotland. This is one of the earliest lagers ever to come out of Scotland. I think it holds some qualities which speak volumes about European Pub style beer. Creamy, low carbonation, smooth, a bit sweet. Really wonderful stuff.

Surprisingly, the bottled version isn’t something I care to try again. My associate, a consultant to the U.N. Council on Beer policy, assures me that the problem is the green bottle which allows a certain type of ruinous sunlight to contaminate the beer with a skunky bitter flavor. Amazing.

Rosie’s is open for lunch and dinner and hosts a backgammon club on the first Tuesday of each month. Come for a bite to eat and stay for the beer.