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The Arcadia News features restaurant reviews each month.
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Atlas Bistro
2515 N. Scottsdale Rd.~ 480.990.2433

A few years ago, a good friend of mine unknowingly turned in his application to become a wine fiend. With collection agencies at foot, he was to be found most evenings swirling a glass of Pinot Noir while pondering the critical issues of the world like the pending war and whether or not Kenneth Cole clothes made him look like a priss.

Over the years his metamorphosis took place. He collected and laminated Matt Diamond’s “By The Glass” articles and built a list of favorites, mostly big flavored reds which he now stockpiles as a hedge against some future unknown crisis which would threaten his supply. He likes it or he doesn’t; it’s awesome or it’s boring and best of all, he loves to entertain company, even if that means his cousin’s wild-eyed fiancé and myself rooting through his wine refrigerator at eleven at night with the merciless and efficient jaws of the “Rabbit.”

What a pleasure it is for us to find a Bistro cut out for wine lovers like ourselves. People who love wine but are tired of the pretentious price tag.

Atlas Bistro is a small BYOB which sits next to AZ Wine. AZ Wine has one of the city’s largest collections of vino priced to sell. Atlas will dismiss the standard BYOB corking fee in exchange for a smaller stemware fee of $2.50 per glass when you shop at AZ. This makes dinner for two with wine pretty reasonable, especially if you think about the markups that other restaurants place on medium priced bottles. Atlas would still be a great spot to eat even without leveraging the wine factor.

My choice, the Braised Lamb Shank with Poblano Mole and served with Kaffir Jasmine Rice ($25.95) was a wealth of flavors. Almost like a Southwest take on Osso Buco but less of a stewed consistency. The Grilled Pork Chop from Neiman Ranch with Peppery Pancetta Smashed Potatoes ($20.95) was another good pick, juicy, flavorful and tender. If you have never had Neiman Ranch’s magnificent meats before, they are becoming wildly popular for good reason. The story behind the ranch is online at nimanranch.com. The Ginger Cured Duck served with Wild Mushroom Risotto and Wilted Spinach ($23.95) was one of the most uniquely flavored items and the Bistro’s one dish which ventures into Asian fusion. Sharing the plate with Risotto it reminds me of some of the fusion ideas from Marco Polo.

The Atlas Bistro is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The AZ Wine Company stays open these days until 10 p.m.