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The Arcadia News
features restaurant reviews each month.
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Wright's at the Arizona Biltmore
2400 E. Missouri | 602-954-2507
Hours: Dinner Daily 6 p.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
For that special occasion, nothing beats dinner at one of the Valley’s many classic dining spots such as Wright’s at the Biltmore, which recently underwent a luxurious renovation.
The impeccable service begins the moment one enters the lobby of the art deco resort where each and every hotel employee you pass greets you warmly. The restaurant’s interior dining room is situated among the famous stylized geometric bricks the hotel is known for and outdoor patio seating is available overlooking the lush flowering grounds. A piano player between the lobby and lounge that night served up a selection of ‘60s songs such as Dionne Warwick’s Walk On By and the Beatles’ Let It Be.
The eatery’s menu features what the chef calls “American Lodge Cuisine,” offering both a la carte listings along with a five course tasting menu ($72). That night’s five courses began with foie gras, arugula salad, roasted pheasant and wild salmon. These tasting choices change daily.
Instead, we made our choices from the regular menu. For starters, the Ahi Tasting ($17) consisted of spicy, yet sweet slices of tuna tartar fanned out among alternating rows of purple Tolleson potato chips that added a nice salty accompaniment.
The Pinot Noir Braised Short Ribs ($14) appetizer would have made an amazing entrée selection. The tender beef in the middle of the plate was artfully encircled with baby carrots and halved pearl onions, all covered with delicious pan gravy that could go head to head with any my Nana ever made. Wright’s also offers more traditionally leafy meal starters such as a Caesar salad ($9) and mixed baby greens ($8).
Attentive servers came around regularly to offer warm bread from a square tray. Traditional Parker House rolls’ light layers were hard to resist and the other choice of heavier sunflower encrusted rolls were also quite good.
Companion’s Seared Red Trout ($31) entrée came topped with Chardonnay butter and American caviar alongside a tasty vegetable ragout and a mustard potato pasta that were both a perfect match for the delicate flavor of the rose colored trout.
The unexpected chill of the rain we had experienced all that day put me in the mood for something heartier than fish, so I ordered the Prime Filet of Beef Tenderloin ($33).
The succulent round slab of steak was lathered with a perfectly browned crust of minced sweet onion mixed with Blue cheese.
Thumb-sized roasted marble potatoes were tailor made to soak up the rich brown gravy dribbled over them. The added accompanying Brussels' sprout petals were sweet and tender and just enough to satisfy eating a green vegetable like mothers always insist.
The special dessert that night was a chocolate soufflé, but we decided to skip the sweets and the extra calories to allow us enough time before night fell so we could wander among the gorgeous grounds.
On our way to check out the famous Catalina Pool, known for being Marilyn Monroe’s favorite spot when she stayed here, we were enchanted by the giant lawn chess set that has been a feature of the resort since 1929.
You’ll feel like royalty as you wrap up the evening and pass through the hallway near the front lobby. Vintage black and white photographs line the walls depicting not only old views and articles of the historic hotel, but portraits showing that every single past American president since FDR has visited this quintessential Arizona getaway.
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