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The Arcadia News features restaurant reviews each month.
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The Capital Grille
2502 E. Camelback Rd. (Biltmore Fashion Park)
602.952.8900

Anticipation of this meal has wrestled with my delayed gratification bone for several days. Preparation for a meal like this requires discipline. Sobriety and starvation are the prerequisites.

“Honey we’re going to a steak house!” are some of the finest words to roll off a hubby tongue. This event has been repeated before with usual expected gluttony, but I felt compelled to enter into this like Rocky vs. Apollo Creed. Abstinence of all vices for days prior should allow the senses to be razor sharp. Another food snobbish couple joined us, appearing equally trained, sensory-wise.

The parade into the establishment is part of the glory of “Steak Night.” We amble past musky leathery booths softly illuminated by hunter green table lamps glistening with polished brass. Enormous oil paintings of past royalty in Arizona politics consume the walls—stately, for sure.

We are escorted to our room, one of four themed areas. Ours is, thankfully, “The wine room.” Similar to putting George Hamilton on the Sun.

Surrounded by mahogany carved wine cabinets storing vintages from floor to ceiling was conducive to intense sampling and anticipated perfection. You would have to drop a shrimp cocktail down my back to make this experience wane.

The young but seasoned waiter quickly and emphatically introduced himself and tore into a diatribe of the night’s specials. Convinced we had already chosen the “perfect meal,” this culinary curve ball had us all staring at each other like someone switched the test we had the answers for. He excused himself and we huddled.

Holding tough, we decided that one of us will try the special. When has Surf and Turf ever been a risky venture? Especially when it’s an aged, bone in, 10-ounce sirloin and four shrimp stuffed with crabmeat ($34.95). All the meat in the Capital Grille is dry-aged in house.

The trick to this evening is to somehow wow us into separating this steakhouse from the myriad of others within miles of here. Steak is relatively hard to do poorly, especially with a great cut. So we cleverly decided to touch all the meat bases.

Our associate brilliantly and expediently chose a hearty Zinfandel from Geyserville. This concurred with the waiter as his favorite also, and would match well with the varieties of meats we are about to embark on.

First though, we shared the apps. A creamy and elegant Lobster Bisque won the approval of four famished patrons ($11.95). Paired with this choice were the Lobster and Crab cakes ($13.95), four of which we did short work of. They were memorable, but not overstated.

Finally, all that we had been training for arrived. The entrees were whisked into our table with the surgical precision of a S.W.A.T. team by four waiters who evaporated after presentation.

Seconds passed before eye contact was made. This looked great. I chose the Signature Veal Chop with Roquefort Butter Sauce ($30.95), an inch and half cut of chop, like a mini porterhouse in stature. The thin, outer layer of fat was perfectly lacquered on the grill and the hint of roquefort butter made this delicate cut sweet and subtle.

Next, the Dry Aged Steak au Poivre with a Courvoisier Crème Sauce always sounds too peppery to enjoy. This dish restored my faith in the peppercorn. Its dense, robust flavor, permeated my palate only to be blended with a swallow of great Zin. Also enjoyed: Dry Aged Bone-in Sirloin with a Porcini Mushroom rub and Shrimp stuffed with Crabmeat.

The finale was the Capital’s Double Cut Rib Lamb Chops (4 at $30.95). My Slavic roots demanded a terrific lamb. The “earthy” lamb taste can sometimes be overpowering. This though, is how it should be. The top spin was, of course, the Mint Jelly, which softened the nature of the lamb. This substance is on planet for only one reason: lamb.

Ample sides were split between the four. Common sense dictated the Roasted Seasonal Mushrooms ($8.95) and Au Gratin Potatoes ($7.95), which were perfect partners.

The evening was a well orchestrated event. Timing was great, food was terrific and ambience was parallel to the experience. When the urge to spend and need for meat collides again, The Capital Grille will be top on the list.